Melanie Griffith's iconic sneakers in Working Girl / Photo: via YouTube
When A.P.C. founder Jean Touitou showed puffy white Nikes with navy tights and little dresses at his fall 2013 presentation last March, there was a certain jokiness to the approach. After years of slim and sharp shoes, would women, even Touitou’s practical cool girl, be open to clomping around in inflated 1980s throwbacks?
From left: A.P.C.'s Fall 2013 Lookbook; Chanel's Spring 2014 Haute Couture Presentation / Photo: via YouTube
Given the brisk clip at which the sneaks flew out of stores, it’s safe to say the answer is yes. (I myself bought a pair, although I’ve yet to wear them with tights.) And while Touitou’s sartorial rebellion against uncomfortable shoes may have been highly notable, he’s certainly not the only one to try it. For spring 2012, Christopher Kane created a high-fashion version of Adidas slides. For spring 2014, Riccardo Tisci designed floral Birkenstock-style sandals for Givenchy. And for fall 2014, Marc Jacobs sent out beaded high-tops. Clothes have relaxed, too. Over the past two years or so, Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have brought the “fashion sweatshirt" to the foreground, while Céline and The Row have made wildly oversized, cozy sweaters the must-have item for winter.
From left: Christopher Kane Spring 2012; Givenchy Spring 2014/ Photo: Courtesy Imaxtree
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But the demand for comfort may have just reached its peak. This week at the couture shows, both Chanel and Dior presented artisan-made versions of ultra-casual footwear. At Dior, designer Raf Simons covered a water shoe with colorful appliqués. At Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld added sequins to sneakers that took 30 hours to produce. The treatments had the fashion world raving. “Chanel couture is everything!!!! Dying with the sneakers….,” said first-tier blogger Bryanboy. “I'm totally wearing sneakers with my couture going forward. Except I don't have any couture,” joked Harper’s Bazaar executive editor Laura Brown.
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Kenzo's cult-fave sweatshirt hits the streets / Photo: via YouTube
It certainly says something about the state of fashion, when even the most rarefied items have been purposefully brought back down to (literal) earth. It also says something about the fashion cycle. These pieces conjure images from 20 to 25 years back. Touitou’s kicks could be likened to Melanie Griffith’s commuter sneakers in 1988’s Working Girl. One can’t help but thinking of Father of the Bride when glimpsing Lagerfeld’s bedazzled trainers. And Kenzo’s sweatshirts? Well, they’re very similar to the ones founder Kenzo Takada designed back in the day.
So, while comfort is a welcome trend that will likely stick around longer than most because of its given conveniences, we must remember that it is, indeed, only a trend. Killer stilettos and too-tight dresses will be in demand once again in the not-so-distant future, so enjoy your sweats while you can.
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