At this time of year, Stockholm is not a fashion-friendly place. The winds are frigid, the temperatures are freezing, and a thin layer of snow and ice makes it treacherous for heels. Not to mention, achieving just the right balance between cozily layered and overbundled is mighty tricky. While the locals were more or less prepared for the unfortunate conditions, the international press and buyers who descended upon the seventeenth Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week struggled to dress the part. However, local designers offered a host of fashionable-yet-practical solutions for Stockholm’s chilly weather in their Fall ’14 collections.
J.Lindeberg, designed by Jessy Heuvelink, presented a high-octane lineup inspired by the medusa, a large jellyfish that swims in cold, dark waters. Cleverly layering blue furs, black leather, and burgundy wool in his outerwear-focused offering, the designer presented a sexy, not-too-serious take on winter dressing.
Celebrating the brand’s fifteenth anniversary, Whyred womenswear designer Roland Hjort expertly layered trousers, dresses, and coats, which he presented in a palette of grays. The outing was topped off by fur jackets and silver Dr. Martens boots. The looks were elegant but stable.
AltewaiSaome, designed by Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome, is fast becoming the most anticipated show of the week. Collaborating with Swedish design firm Bolon, they turned out straight silhouettes that emphasized the waist. Slit knee-length skirts and split half-shoulder jackets were paired with boxy, silver appliquéd tops, and belts and clutch bags in bright reds, yellows, and lime greens provided a finishing kick.
Putting on the shows of the week was Ann-Sofie Back, both for her own label, BACK, and Cheap Monday, where she is the creative director. For BACK, she chose a circular church and had her models twirl down the runway wearing pink face paint and a deconstructed hairstyle she dubbed “BACK With a Bang!” Naturally, it was a reference to the mania of fashion week. The clothes were draped, tied, and knotted in velvet, fleece, and chestnut lambswool knit. Cheap Monday, meanwhile, began with dancing couples encompassed by circles of light. The inspiration, we later learned, was young couples who are hopeful in the face of doom. Heavy, inverted denim; crinkled jersey; and leatherette with pleated chiffon sequins made up the soft rounded shapes and funnel necks. The last show of the week, Tiger of Sweden, dressed a timeless heroine, maybe a Hitchcock blond, in shades of gray, emerald green, dusty pink, and dark royal blue. Thigh-high boots, oversize scarves draped over the shoulders, and an intriguing black velvet turtleneck dress were just some of the collection’s standouts.
—Charlotte Rey
Photos: Mathias Nordgren
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