From a scientific approach to the evolution of Louis Vuitton handbags — creationism, in a sense — to a look at the outfits that defined the 1980s and 1990s to another rollicking memoir by the ever-fashionable Simon Doonan, here are our picks for the top style titles of 2013:
"THE FASHION BOOK" (Phaidon, $59.95): This year, Phaidon updated its landmark (and tombstone-heavy) fashion encyclopedia, with 72 new entries, including style power couple David and Victoria Beckham, Lady Gaga and red carpet maverick Tilda Swinton. Each short entry features a signature image, from fearless couture collector Iris Apfel in a Commes des Garçons coat (pictured) to the ever-impassive Anna Wintour spotted between two gliding models at a runway show.
"LOUIS VUITTON CITY BAGS: A NATURAL HISTORY" by Jean-Claude Kaufmann, Ian Luna, Florence Muller, Mariko Nashitani and Colombe Pringle (Rizzoli, $85): Much coveted and even more passionately copied, Louis Vuitton’s monogrammed leather bags are among the most collectible fashion artifacts in the world. Using archival photos, vintage ad campaigns and contemporary fashion spreads, this quasi-scientific taxonomy shows how the label’s various "specimens" evolved and offers examples of the fashion house’s celebrated collaborations with designers including Takashi Murakami, Stephen Sprouse, Richard Prince and Rei Kawakubo.
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"VOGUE MODEL: THE FACES OF FASHION" by Robin Muir and Robin Derrick (Little, Brown, $29.95): Far from human clothes hangers, the models who have graced the pages of Vogue have served as style muses — from Britain’s wasp-waisted Barbara Goalen, who epitomized Dior’s New Look in the 1950s, to the "heroin chic" of Kate Moss in the 1990s — and heralded changes in what we consider beautiful. The ultimate model call, this book catalogs the famed faces, from Jazz Age beauty Paula Gellibrand to a pre-plastic surgery Janice Dickinson to today’s top model Gisele Bundchen, who have called Vogue home.
"DIANA VREELAND MEMOS: THE VOGUE YEARS" ($55, Rizzoli): This hefty volume reveals how Vreeland, who managed via dictated memo, transformed Vogue into the leading magazine title in the fashion world in the 1960s. Sprinkled with her startling pronouncements — "Old age is no longer an achievement because, if others are aware of it, you are only the loser" — the book, compiled by her grandson, features more than 250 memos and letters, including correspondence with fashion photographers Cecil Beaton, Richard Avedon and Irving Penn, top model of the day Veruschka and designer Christóbal Balenciaga.
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"THE ASYLUM: A COLLAGE OF COUTURE REMINISCENCES … AND HYSTERIA" by Simon Doonan (Blue Rider Press, $25.95): Doonan, the creative ambassador for Barneys and husband of potter to the stars Jonathan Adler, is a nimble storyteller whose latest memoir explores the commonalities between the clinically insane and the "insanely fashionable," using eccentrics such as fashion writer Suzy Menkes and designer Thierry Mugler (and many more unnamed) as object lessons.
"ELIE SAAB" by Janie Same (Assouline, $250): Since Halle Berry donned his bronze embroidered gown to grab her Oscar, the Lebanese couturier has been the crown prince of the red carpet, a maestro of modern romance, with starlets and socialites snapping up his lavishly embellished creations. The book features photos of his famous fans in his gowns, as well as lush portraits of the gowns by Laziz Hamani. (If $250 is a bit steep, Assouline offers a much-abridged version for $25.)
"FIFTY FASHION LOOKS THAT CHANGED THE 1980s," "THE 1990s" by Paula Reed (Design Museum, $20): A continuation of Reed’s smart series, these books look at the designers, models, movements and outfits that define their decades. From ’80s gender-benders Boy George and Annie Lennox to Donna Karan’s easy armor for the modern woman, and from Marc Jacobs’ paradigm-shifting grunge collection to "Hammer pants," the Rachel and Gwyneth Palrow’s candy-pink Oscar gown — they’re all here, whether you want to be reminded of them or not.
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