Photographs by Eric Ryan Anderson A new wave of inventive fashion labels prove there is magic in collaboration.
PASSAVANT AND LEE
Leather Goods
“What does the modern expression of a classic ideal look like?” Jon Passavant (left) asks in explaining the New York-based men’s accessories brand he founded with Benj Lee. One answer to that question would be Passavant and Lee, themselves: both are among the most successful male models of the last decade. Passavant, 34, and Lee, 31, spent three years enlisting the services of more than a dozen engineers and the head of the Yale prototyping lab to create a single debut style, the No. 25 briefcase. Aircraft-grade aluminum shells are made in a California airplane factory before being shipped to New York, where master craftsmen hand-attach leather components (from the Chicago-based heritage tanner Horween) and silk-lined suede interior pockets. The result is a James Bond-worthy briefcase. No. 25 briefcase, $2,850; passavantandlee.com
From left: Jesse John Jenkins; Sean Thomas. TRAGER DELANEY
Women’s Wear
“Nuns. Funerals. Paris Hilton. Lufthansa planes. Campari. Majorca. Cockfights,” reads a partial list of Kim Trager and Lowell Delaney’s stream-of-consciousness influences for spring 2014. The London-based duo interned at Céline, Alexander Wang and Haider Ackermann, and, six months after graduating from Central Saint Martins, had a business plan and a backer. In just two seasons, the 27-year-olds have set Britain atwitter by distilling brilliantly berserk prints, textures and details — mink belt loops and rubberized yarn — into elegant, wearable women’s wear. Leather and yarn jacket, about $3,500; tragerdelandey.com
From left: David Brandon Geeting; Ward Ivan Rafik. SMITH & SMITH
Men’s Wear
The name is an alias, as Emilia Buccolo and Dayton Rinks, ages 23 and 24, see their minimalist men’s wear line as more about the wearer than the designers. “Our aesthetic, combined with the name, gives the feeling that the brand comes from some futuristic utopia,” says Rinks, who met Buccolo as a freshman at Parsons. Their 10-piece collection, which makes its debut Dec. 21 at Dover Street Market in New York and Tokyo, reinterprets the casual uniform of the millennial generation with clever details and innovative fabrications. Shorts with a mock trouser fly are tailored in high-tech foam; ribbed insets create a trompe l’oeil “polo shirt” that would do Martin Margiela proud. White crew-neck T-shirt, $118, and marine five-pocket shorts, $210; smith-smith.com
From left: Jack Barnes; Darryl Stoodley. UNIFORM WARES
Watches
Starting a business in 2009 during the worst of the recession was risky, but it made sense for the London-based duo Patrick Bek (left) and Oliver Fowles, the former freelance designers behind Uniform Wares, maker of watches that offer high-end construction at moderate prices. “We couldn’t find a watch that we wanted to wear at the price we could afford,” says Bek, 31, whose understated unisex timepieces have drawn a fervent fan base among architects and graphic designers, as well as some less likely customers. “We had an elderly gentleman call the office and ask a lot of technical questions,” the 32-year-old Fowles says. “He said, ‘It’s likely this will be my last watch.’ We see that as part of the brand’s success.” 351 Series Edition watch, about $850; uniformwares.com
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