A manufacturing facility in Xiaoshan district, in the heart of China's textile industry. An image from Greenpeace Detox campaign. Photograph: Lance Lee/Greenpeace
The ethical sourcing of fur for fashion has made headlines in the last few weeks, after PETA footage (warning: graphic content) revealed the shocking conditions of angora rabbit factory farms in China. H&M, Espirit, C&A and New Look are among brands who have since halted production of angora products.
Patagonia's commitment against animal cruelty accelerated in November when it announced it would only source 100% traceable goose down, and Women's Wear Daily recently declared that mohair, made from angora goats, is the new "sustainable luxe," thanks to its historic durability and ability to take on colour.
With such a strong response to animal rights in relation to fashion, why are more people not looking at the impact of the fashion industry on our living and breathing planet in the same way?
Large quantities of water and chemicals such as pesticides are used in the production of fibres like cotton, while waste water discharges containing toxic chemicals can enter pubic waterways and prove fatal for fish. Consider that in its Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stitch-Up report (PDF), Greenpeace found residues of hazardous chemicals in clothing made by 20 global fashion brands.
Rebecca Burgess, author, textile artist and founder of The Fibershed Project in San Geronimo, California says true consideration for the planet is lost on most people who forget that the earth is itself a complex entity that experiences what humans do to it.
"Furry mammals are so closely related to humans that I think we often anthropomorphise them. To watch them experience pain is often an empathetic process, and it creates hurt and sadness. It would be great if humans could begin to understand the whole earth is alive: the soil, air, water, and to violate it, is to violate oneself, and all the furry mammals we care so much for," says Burgess, "It's simply amazing how far we are from being a seriously ecologically literate culture."
PETA's director of marketing innovations, Joel Bartlett says while PETA's focus is on animal rights and animal suffering, the two often go hand in hand with ecological degradation, so to support animals is to support the planet and give it a voice. Bartlett gives the example of pollution from the meat industry, which is responsible for huge amounts of carbon emissions. The leather industry's tanneries are similarly hazardous to the environment and to impoverished communities and their drinking water.
How to frame this for the same reaction stirred by witnessing the live plucking of animals though, might just be the work of seasoned social media pros mixed with psychology.
"Facebook allows us to share information, images and videos of animals who are used for food, clothing, entertainment and in experiments. Today, PETA is reaching three times as many people on Facebook than it did just a year ago," says Barlett. Its angora video has already been seen by more than 3.3 million people.
Sarina Saturn, assistant professor at the School of Psychological Science at Oregon State University, says it is in our brains to consider poor treatment of the earth as being "unethical". But in order to tap into these "neural structures", we need to access our care-giving system, which largely relies on witnessing suffering of beings. That's why those adverts that show people and animals in pain really pull at our heartstrings, especially if you can see it in their eyes. "It is simply harder for people to see the earth as a living, breathing entity," says Saturn. "In order to get mainstream society to react faster and stronger we have to show victims (people and animals) of planet abuse."
Ambika Conroy is an upstate New York designer who farms as well as designs with angora rabbit fur and says our re-connection with fashion and environment will start with animals and food, two things that give us immediate gratification. Conroy is currently compiling a list of natural fibre sheds all over the country that adhere to ethical principles for both animals and planet.
"A fibre may be natural, but that does not mean the bunny had a good life and was treated humanly just as an organic free range chicken might never see the light of day. These words are marketing tools and we as consumers are pretty gullible," says Conroy. While she thinks the internet and video in particular are an incredible tool for change, Conroy believes people are simply looking for some earthly connection in the chaos.
Could the digital age actually be to blame for our disconnect from appreciating nature? As Benjamin Franklin once said, "When the well's dry, we know the worth of water." A mantra we might want to hold dear in a time of increased divorce from the environment.
"I think social media circles are great for making this connection but I often feel I am preaching to the choir when I post to my friends or followers, but then again they share and I get people writing to tell me how I totally changed their understanding of nature and that they knew nothing about the horrors of the fashion industry. We just need to do more and reach more people that don't often see how bad it is," says Conroy.
Amy DuFault is a writer and sustainable fashion consultant. In addition to being a former co-owner of an eco-boutique and a rep for sustainable designers, she coaches and connects the sustainable fashion community
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