It’s easy to think of literal and cliched images when one gives Japan as a jumping off point for a collection. In the hands of a lesser designer, Japan as an inspiration would have been a melange of kimonos, silk prints and perhaps the influence of the avant-garde Japanese designers of the early 90s. But Michael Bastian, the first designer to show at New York Fashion Week, did not go that route. To great effect.
His Japan was more Tokyo by way of Neapolitan tailors and American Ivy League. It’s the image of Japanese men who have made the Florence men’s trade show Pitti Uomo an important event in the fashion calendar – they with their impeccably cut suits and their modern way with classic clothes that render them like walking fashion editorials.
Bastian showed handsome suits in plaid, herringbone, micro-houndstooth and window pane patterns. In these suits, you kind have to agree to the adage that clothes do make the man because they were faultless. There were also the slim cut trousers he’s perfected in either cargo or ribbed biker versions. Towards the end of the show, models in silk dinner jackets in peacock blue and gold added verve to the collection.
Throughout, Bastian added hints of Japanese culture to some of the pieces like the windbreaker with the Mt. Fuji print, the camo sweater and hats, which upon closer inspection were actually made from a bamboo print.
All in all, it was another solid collection from Bastian who, at the rate he’s going, is the singular most important voice in American menswear.
View the slideshow to see the collection. All photos by Dan Lecca courtesy of Michael Bastian.
Stay tuned for more New York Fashion Week Fall 2014 coverage.
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