Of the hundreds of fall 2014 collections shown during New York Fashion Week, here are the ones that left the biggest impressions on fashion editors as they headed off to the next round of shows, in London, Milan and Paris.
Marc Jacobs
Mirroring the mood of the times, this procession of slinky knits, soft-hued mink bombers and petal-like drifts of organza was low on grand gestures, high on chic.
Minimalist dresses slit to reveal pin-thin pants
Pastel ombre bomber jackets in thick plush
Clean looks wrapped in light waves of organza
Calvin Klein
Knits in myriad varieties, including curly mohair coats and hand-stitched, multipaneled sweaters, were the focus of a disciplined but cozy collection in a soothing palette of earth tones and snow.
Mixed-knit jumpers blocked out in white, black and gray
Turtleneck sweater tops with chunky, sampler-scarf knit panels
Ralph Lauren
A collection distinguished by its sure-handed hybrid of refinement and ease, its muted pastels and buttery fabrics arguing for opulence but in no way overstating the case.
An upscale hippie dress under a distressed bomber
A massive, asymmetrical cape in soft pink
Proenza Schouler
A study in artfully sculptured effects, the collection relied for its impact on the arced shoulders and gently flared hips that have become the designers’ signature. Multilayered prints provided a playful counterpoint.
A peplum jacket printed with acid-trip cyan fractal noise
Trapper-keeper pattern collages in leather and wool
A plunge-bra-topped dress with a mercurial, wood-grain skirt
Narciso Rodriguez
Pure in conception but hardly austere, the collection was enriched by cocoon coats, breeze-catching silks, substantial knits and cardigan-like jackets in rivetingly mismatched hues.
A simple sheath dress blocked with vertical, earth-tone stripes
Asymmetrical cream blouses with enlarged, organic lapels
A metallic dress paneled with soft curves of contrasting golds and bronzes
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Brisk military tailoring, pink vinyl, outsize bows, biker coats and crinolines were among the elements that formed a kicky homage to late '80s and '90s girl power.
Manga-motocross dresses printed with bright graphic logos
An olive-green workwear gi closed with a comically oversized leather belt
Exaggerated, bow-tie tops paired with pleated tulle skirts
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Cornejo loyalists like Tilda Swinton and Miranda July will find plenty to covet in a runway parade of elongated jumpers and incandescent white shirts. High-luxury ponchos and track pants placed it in a league with those of fashion’s top taste-makers.
Cream-colored elastic-cuff pants
Baggy trekking pullovers rendered in geometric jacquard
Cornflower blue schoolgirl tops and black wool lace
Derek Lam
Tackled with a subtle hand, the collection was marked by deceptively simple shapes and a medley of textures, nubby or ribbed, the deliberate plainness relieved here and there by Asian-inflected color pairings.
A patchwork skirt of leather squares in shades of green, black and brown
Asymmetrical separates draped to evoke Tibetan monk fashion
Prayer-flag silk evening dresses featuring large slits held closed with beads
Alexander Wang
The fusion of tech and warm tactile effects gave an extra jolt of relevance to a label long defined by its accent on youth. Searing colors and beefed up shapes accomplished the rest.
Square-cut wool looks featuring utilitarian cargo pockets
Space-age dresses made of dizzying, woven chevrons
Heat-sensitive garments in Day-Glo green, blue and purple
Altuzarra
Coats were the stars of the season, and of a show that counterbalanced lofty shearlings and double-faced cashmeres in electrifying tints with tapestry effects that had a hand-loomed feel.
Tailored, double-faced wool coats with bright blue lapels
Dresses handworked with rough stitches and dangling loose ends
The fingerpaint plaid of a garish and furry abstract expressionism
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