Top 10 Fashions and Flubs - Wall Street Journal

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Marc Jacobs took his final bow as designer of Louis Vuitton Wednesday amid more than a little drama. As rumors of his departure flew, the show confirmed them with a nostalgic set: Stage décor—such as elevators, a fountain and a hotel hallway—resembled a greatest-hits collection from his past Vuitton shows.

It has been a newsy month in fashion, with designers playing musical chairs and selling stakes to deep-pocketed investors. After Vuitton confirmed Mr. Jacobs's departure, talk about the label's next designer centered on Nicolas Ghesquière, the former designer of Balenciaga. Marco Zanini announced his departure from Rochas to go to the old-new Schiaparelli. And Rochas tapped Alessandro Dell'Acqua, an Italian designer with a cult-like following.

Luxury conglomerates Kering and LVMH are racing to snap up stakes in emerging labels. Kering bought a minority stake in New York-based Altuzarra. LVMH bought controlling shares in London-based shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood and apparel designer J.W. Anderson.

Marco de Vincenzo received a cash infusion from LVMH that helped him buy richer fabrics and more publicity for his show, say people familiar with the label. The Italian designer is expected to make an announcement on the investor's role soon. LVMH didn't respond to a request for comment.

A model walks the runway at the Prada Spring Summer 2014 fashion show.

All the action highlights the anticipation of growth in luxury labels. As Mr. Jacobs focuses on expanding his Marc Jacobs label, Diego Della Valle, the Italian founder of Tod's, is relaunching the house of Schiaparelli, defunct for 50 years. (It will literally be a house, with its atelier in a grand house on Paris's Place Vendôme.) The debut will come in January with an haute couture collection aimed at the globe's richest fashion clients.

As more than 600 labels showed in New York, London, Milan and Paris, an ethnic vibe ran through many collections. Streetwear, white blouses and fuzzy socks worn with heels were among the trends. As for the rest, here's a handy cheat sheet to the best, worst and most outrageous of spring 2014.

Most Memorable Collection

Miuccia Prada planted vivid faces on dresses and handbags, choosing paintings from artists who fascinate her, and thus us, because she has an uncanny sense of how to grip people's imaginations.

Best Show

For models, Rick Owens had step dancers flown in from the U.S.—mostly African-American, which means this show was also the most diverse. His collection, fitted for their sturdy athletic bodies, proved the Rick Owens woman can be broad and strong. It took a few moments to realize the dancers, whose strange expressions and poses seemed to poke fun at unsmiling models, weren't an opening act. But in the end, some guests and models were moved to tears.

Blingiest Bag

Zagliani's "Faye" clutch comes in 22-carat gold-rubbed crocodile, priced at 13,030 euros ($17,700). The croc is Australian Porosus, considered the best. A Milan artisan applies the gold with filament paper and a hot rolling bar. Obviously a limited edition (how many can they sell?), it can be made to order, in case you want your initials in diamonds on it.

Most Overworked

Zac Posen, busy judging "Project Runway" on television and designing cars, may have taken his eye off the road at his day job—his eponymous collection. His froufrou clothes seemed aimed at Cinderella's silly stepsisters, when this designer has always aspired to dress the princess herself.

Boldest Threads

It's time to shine. Alber Elbaz overdid the shimmering disco look at Lanvin, and the sequined flames at Saint Laurent were awkward, but the collections were afire with shimmering, metallic apparel. A little bit goes a long way.

Most Cringeworthy

It wasn't nearly as bad as the season Lindsay Lohan was the label's artistic director. Yet one shudders for Emanuel Ungaro, watching his once serenely tailored line twist in the wind. The latest designer, Fausto Puglisi, is an Italian with his own line in Milan. But his fabric choices and busy looks—stripes, polka dots, ruffles and buttons all in one chiffon look—were too much.

Biggest Influencer

Céline designer Phoebe Philo made Birkenstocks chic for spring 2013 and has a track record of influencing fellow designers. So here's the forecast-based-on-Philo: a 90% chance of rope hippie sandals, bold, colorful, big prints, roomy sweaters and jackets, and continued below-knee skirt lengths.

Most Evolved

One of the reasons we sit on the edge of our seats for Proenza Schouler's collection each season is that it will never remotely resemble the last one. Its fluorescent lace, eel skirts, and basket-woven dresses were each distinctive for their seasons. This season, its shimmer-knit dresses and mesmerizing tree-branch prints stood out.

Most Mis-Fit

Hip-hop and athletic themes ran through a number of collections in New York and Milan, including Galitzine, Calvin Klein and Pucci. While this may work for lower-priced contemporary labels, it is at odds with what consumers expect from luxury brands. Glammed-up track suits recall the era of bling, which ended badly with recession.

The New Look

It's a fresh take on the cotton shirt: Man-shirting materials, cut into blouses and dresses. We saw it from Theyskens Theory in New York to Viktor & Rolf in Paris and No. 21 in Milan. These will translate well to fast fashion, but the real style is in the quirky elements, where fit is everything.

Funnest Sneaker

Pierre Hardy's "PerfoCube" takes the elements of a hi-top basketball shoe and employs fine perforated leather. Mr. Hardy—whose wit makes him a favorite designer at Hermes—seems to be winking at us while helping us look dressy in sneakers.

Write to Christina Binkley at christina.binkley@wsj.com

A version of this article appeared October 3, 2013, on page D1 in the U.S. edition of The Wall Street Journal, with the headline: Top 10 Fashions and Flubs.

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