The Anthony Ryan and Dama Talya runway shows were part of the Monday (Sept. 30) NOLA Fashion Week event at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Despite the New Orleans Saints' appearance on "Monday Night Football," attendance was good. The models had been given a zigzag path through the museum’s empty main gallery, where paintings by Sargent, Monet and George Rodrigue have hung. Call it art in motion.
Dama Talya
The great thing about the Dama Talya plus-sized designs for Spring/Summer 2014 is that the designers don’t seem bent on disguising a Baroque body type. There are no predictable slimming vertical bands and only a rare flowing top layer. In fact, the use of horizontal ruffles and conspicuous belts tends to emphasize the fullness of the physique. Overall, the white on white dresses, pants outfits and shorts ensembles by Dama Talya sculpt the figure as is, with no apologies.
Dama Talya is the title of the mother-daughter team of Kim Piraro and Natalie Piraro-Bendy. Natalie explained that the name means “Lady Talya” in Italian. Talya was Natalie’s college nickname.
Natalie said that the guiding concept behind Dama Talya is “promoting size acceptance.” She said that typically designers do what they can to camouflage a full figure. But in her conversations with larger women, she discovered that many didn’t want to “conceal their bodies.” Natalie, who describes herself as full-figured, said that design wise, she “believes in what’s already there, what’s yours.”
“Women deserve to feel beautiful and confident no matter what shape they are.”
By designing in ivory, champagne, taupe and all the variations of summer white, Natalie said, Dama Talya has emphasized their principles because white shows “every wrinkle, every difference.”
"It was difficult,” she said. “We could have thrown black in there, we could have thrown in blue, but that’s not what we wanted to do.”
My favorite Dama Talya design was a cold white pants and blouse combo, with sharp creases on the legs that contrasted with the bunching of the sleeves. The outfit’s visual bang was triggered by a glinting chrome belt buckle that spanned the pelvis and subversively drew attention directly to the waistline.
One downside: The bright white Dama Talya designs, blasted with the stark spotlights, confused the auto setting on my poor cameras, so some of my video came out overly shiny. Live and learn.
Anthony Ryan
Designer Anthony Ryan was up next. Fans of "Project Runway All Stars" recognize him as the winner of the 2012 television competition. He was previously a contestant on "Project Runway" during 2011’s season nine. He lives in Baton Rouge. His full name is Anthony Ryan Auld.
Auld’s relatively spare, mod designs were based on a curious concept.
“It’s really this whole idea, if Christopher Columbus never sailed the ocean blue in 1492, what Native American fashion would have evolved to,” he said.
Auld said that he’s part Cherokee.
He said that the silvery geometric patterns that mark many of the designs were inspired by traditional Native American decoration, though the metallic gray tones and primary color flourishes he chose for much of the collection is a futuristic touch.
“There’s a little bit of Star Trek in there,” he said.
Auld’s runway show began with a linear young woman in startlingly short shorts. Her blouse included a semi-circular panel at the rear, reminiscent of the tail of a man’s shirt. As the string of women strode past, it was clear that time and again Auld had toyed with the idea of tuxedo-like tails. He explained that the tails were an abstraction of Native American ponchos. The various shapes represent what ponchos might have become had American clothing not been overtaken by European designs.
My favorite design was a relatively simple, flat-fronted dress, decorated with a pair of embroidered birds. Auld said that he produces elaborate embroidered touches with a 10-needle automated embroidery machine. The machine can copy photos and renderings that are fed into it digitally.
As Auld said, “there’s a little bit of Star Trek in there.”
At the end of his runway show, Auld took his bows wearing a navy blue velvet blazer, charcoal pants and fiery fluorescent yellow athletic shoes. As I interviewed him, I noticed a fascinating tattoo. Undulating up Auld’s forearm is a red squid right out of "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea." Auld said sea creatures fascinate him. The squid tattoo is his own design.
Auld has recently suffered a health crisis. In 2008-2009 he was successfully treated for testicular cancer. This spring he had a second, unrelated occurrence of the disease. Once again, he underwent surgery and chemotherapy. He ran his hand through his short brush-like hair to demonstrate that it was growing back. He said that once again, he’s in the clear.
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