Men's fashion takes a leap forward in Chicago - Chicago Tribune

Men's fashion is having a moment — make that a week — in Chicago. On Wednesday Italian menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna drew a well-tailored crowd, including Chicago Blackhawks Patrick Sharp, Michael Kostka and Brandon Bollig, to a celebration of its redesigned and expanded store at 645 N. Michigan Ave. On Thursday, another Italian master of C-suite suiting, Brioni, celebrated its first luxury store in the city at 12 E. Walton St., with GQ Deputy Editor Michael Hainey and publisher Chris Mitchell on the scene.


The sartorial stylings took a radical turn at Fashion Focus: Chicago Fashion Week, which devoted an entire runway show to menswear for the first time in its nine-year history. Men's jackets in the Millennium Park tent on Thursday night were rendered in everything from sunshine yellow, designed by J. Cheikh, to distressed, sleeveless leather, from Michelle Tan.


Chicago accessory designer Jack Cave covered male models in moonstone-colored Morphsuits to play up his man bags (aka "murses," as one male colleague affectionately calls them).


In its segment, Oak Street menswear shop Gallery Aesthete seduced the audience with the dark Euro designs of superstars Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and Comme des Garcons.


The show, called Urban Shapeshifters, turned out to be one of the most enlightening in Fashion Focus history, illuminating a range of possibilities for exuding masculine bravado.


The city's fashion week levels the playing field further this weekend at Millennium Park. For the first time, Fashion Focus is host to the men-centric pop-up market Northern Grade, which will fill the Chase Promenade South Tent with made-in-the-USA clothing, footwear, grooming gear, games and more for the guys, from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday and from 11 to 5 p.m. Sunday.


A women's counterpart, FashionChicago, in the north tent, features more than 30 apparel, jewelry and accessory designers from Chicago, including Calvin Tran, Nomadic Ant, and Nora del Busto, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. both days.


See fashionfocuschicago.org for details.


Wendy Donahue






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