MILAN - Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday with a collection reminiscent of a luxurious opium den, with billowing see-through tops and Art Nouveau-style floral patterns.
Shimmering golds, azalea purples, lizard greens and salmon pinks were the dominant colours on the catwalk, all worn over fishnet black underwear with straps and belts left drooping.
Billowing nightgowns and flowing veils featured strongly in a collection that appeared to reach further back from this year's Art Deco inspired fashions to the turn of the century and Orientalism.
Among those attending the show at the Sheraton hotel in Milan was French luxury tycoon Francois-Henri Pinault, the husband of actress Salma Hayek and the chief executive of the multinational holding Kering, which owns Gucci.
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Also present was actress Blake Lively, who sat next to US Vogue editor Anna Wintour in her trademark sunglasses.
Fashion week, which runs until Monday, will feature 74 catwalk shows ranging from familiar names like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Prada and Versace to up-and-coming young designers.
Organizers have said they are aiming to inject more young talent into the industry, as it looks forward to 2014 when it hopes to shake off the recession.
While fashion giants have stayed buoyant thanks to booming sales in emerging markets, smaller labels have struggled after a plunge in the domestic market.
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Mario Boselli, head of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, which organizes Milan Fashion Week, said the latest estimates point to turnover for the industry next year that will equal that of 2008, before the economic crisis.
"For the first time we have hopes that the domestic market will prove more buzzing," Boselli said, although he admitted that turnover for the industry as a whole for 2013 would still be down 2.5 percent from 2012.
"We are ready to do everything to return to Italy and to Milan a leading role on the international fashion stage," he said.
Thousands of young revellers packed into fashion boutiques on the eve of fashion week as DJs pumped out club music in an event called Vogue Fashion's Night Out.
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