Belgian model Hanne Gaby Odiele shows off her street look in New York. Photograph: Rex
The clothes that models wear on the catwalk are the bread and butter of any fashion season, but the interest in models' off-duty style is becoming almost as scrutinised – and, indeed, photographed.
At Paris fashion week, which began on Wednesday, the scrum of street-style photographers outside shows is growing by the day. While they snap well-dressed editors in Celine and Prada on their way in, models wearing their own clothes en route to the next show – often on a moped – are becoming the money shots.
The off-duty model look has developed in tandem with the growth of street-style photography. While break-out stars are Hanne Gaby Odiele and Hanneli Mustaparta – who each have a unique personal style – the typical off-duty model look is plainer. It consists of urban basics: grey marl T-shirts, biker jackets, skinny jeans, short shorts and (a must) biker boots. A bit grungy, with a rock'n'roll edge, Freja Beha Erichsen and Erin Wasson epitomise the look.
"They [models] have relaxed, true style," says Daniel Troyse, co-founder of respected blog Stockholm Street Style. "They wear H&M, Zara – like any young woman – for a couple of years, then start to get labels such as Isabel Marant and Acne."
Paris is the capital of this look, with Acne, Swedish of course, leading the way. For its sophomore outing in the city on Saturday, the brand brought a distinctly Swedish flavour. Pelle Almqvist from the Hives opened proceedings by singing the old Swedish song Till Havs and the collection had a maritime theme, with fisherman trousers and anchors featuring. "It was maritime," said creative director Jonny Johansson backstage, "but it had our approach."
The Acne approach is one at the heart of the off-duty model aesthetic. While other Paris brands such as Lanvin and Christian Dior present a very desirable aesthetic, it's definitely dressed up. Acne comes from a different school of thought, one where ease and wearability are paramount and mixed with just a sprinkling of rock'n'roll.
Johansson quipped that models liked the label because "they get it for free", but acknowledged a certain urban real-life quality to his brand that fits with this off-duty look: "I like fantasy, but there is a Swedish functionality, that's why people like it." Slouchy mohair jumpers, shredded white leather biker jackets and blazers are new season pieces likely to be seen on the back of mopeds next summer.
Models wearing your brand's clothes off-duty is a shrewd way of getting targeted endorsements without advertising. Featuring a model's endless legs and ability to pose, these street-style images end up on countless blogs around the world – and non-models emulate them by buying into the brands. Acne posted £70m in revenue for 2012 and various hits for the brand, including the Rita biker jacket and the Pistol boot, can be traced back to models wearing them.
"Models look comfy and cool," says Julia Sarr-Jamois, contributing fashion editor for Pop and an ex-model. "It's quite an accessible look. People want to be the girl who can just get out of bed and pull on a jumper, whether it's the reality or not."
Troyse says the model has motivation for striking a pose off the catwalk, especially in an increasingly digitally minded culture. "If she has her picture taken, it increases her profile," he says. "A model with many Instagram followers will have an advantage over one with zero." Ross Young, head of new faces at Next Models, agrees: "It gets people talking about them. When the girls have a strong online fan base, it can elevate them from model to style icon and supermodel."
Young adds that when a new model is signed up to Next, they are advised to adhere to the "model casting" wardrobe: "Skinny jeans, shorts or skirt and a loose top – clothes that show your body's shape but also express your individual style." While he name-checks high street brands such as Topshop and Asos as favourites, he agrees that "Acne defines the traditional model look".
Two other favourites, Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno, showed in Paris on Friday. Bruno's was a relaxed take, with unstructured biker jackets, soft dungaree dresses and low-slung skirts all worn with backless boots. To a soundtrack that included the Stooges and Primal Scream, Marant's collection featured shredded jeans cut in a diamond pattern, worn with blazers and pretty peasant blouses.
It's a look that could go instantly from the catwalk to the model wardrobe – sexy, effortless but with a tough edge is Marant's calling card and it gets a lot of business from the models. That includes industry favourites such as Catherine McNeil and Saskia De Brauw and the pin-up for the Instagram generation, Georgia May Jagger, who all featured in her show. With Marant's H&M collection out in November, off-duty model is about to be a look available on the high street.
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