Samir Hussein/Getty ImagesJonathan Saunders, spring 2014. LONDON — If you think of Jonathan Saunders as a freewheeling colorist, you’re in the right ballpark. But this season he departed from his well-composed outfits that occasionally bordered on the tastefully conventional. I liked this collection very much. Mr. Saunders opened his show on Sunday night at the Tate Modern museum with tricolor suede jackets over Western-cut, sheer embroidered blouses and satin shorts with sandals.
That got my attention: finally, something different from Mr. Saunders.
The cropped jackets, which had cousins in the form of satin windbreakers, were part of a separates story that included splotchy prints and nice, blurry shadings of sunset colors, like pink to turquoise. The Western-style blouses were a lovely way to lighten things up. The suede jackets — in color combos like violet, navy, and brown — were smart and boyish.
For contrast, Mr. Saunders served up feminine dresses with soft sleeves and gathered waists, and different panels of color and print, including some well-done numbers with more of that sunset shading. There was a lot of thought and work in this collection, as well as a big payoff.
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