A scarf created by French artist Philippe Jullian, from the collection of Ascher scarves on display at the McNichols Building in downtown Denver. (Kathryn Scott Osler , The Denver Post)
Fashion and fine art collide in a new exhibit at the McNichols Building.
The medium is scarves, that near-necessity in accessories for everyone from pre-teens to grande dames, fashion houses to big-box retailers, winter and summer.
"The Printed Square: International Fashion Scarves Dressing Up a War" features more than 40 square scarves from the 1940s and 1950s — their patterns designed by some of the most famous artists of the time, including Henri Matisse, Alexander Calder and Henry Moore.
Commissioned and manufactured by Ascher Ltd. (London), the bold, colorful Ascher Squares come from the collection of H. Kirk Brown III and Jill Wiltse of Denver, owners of one of the largest holdings in the world of the artist-designed scarves.
In post-war Britain, everything was limited and rationed, including clothing, said Shanna Shelby, curator of the couple's collection and cultural program coordinator for Denver Arts & Venues. "These scarves were the highlight accessory women could wear."
"It was truly a fashion statement," Brown said.
Many of the Ascher scarves boast graphic designs and patterns — perfect for folding. Others, like the horse and rider by Pedro Flores or the visage of Jean Cocteau, more closely resemble paintings.
The very first Ascher scarves were printed on parachute silk due to rationing, Brown said.
All were limited edition, with no more than 600 of any design made prior to the screen being destroyed. At the time, they cost about 12 British pounds, he said — nearly 400 pounds today, or about $680.
Zika and Lida Ascher, who fled to London from Czechoslovakia in the early days of World War II, later produced the floral-print fabrics launched by Christian Dior and introduced mohair into haute couture.
"Many of (the scarves) weren't treated very well," Brown said. "There are people who probably have them and don't even know what they have."
Brown and Wiltse have been collecting Ascher scarves for nearly a decade, one niche of their extensive textiles holding. Pieces from their collection have been displayed around the world, including the Fashion and Textile Museum in London.
Locally, Brown and Wiltse's collection has been featured in shows at the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center and the Rocky Mountain College of Art & Design. This is the first time, though, that the Ascher scarves have been shown in Denver, Brown said.
"You don't have to go to New York. You don't have to go to London," said Tariana Navas-Nieves, director of cultural affairs for Denver Arts & Venues. "It's right here."
Emilie Rusch: 303-954-2457, erusch@denverpost.com or http://ift.tt/1d3fw1X
"the printed square"
Hours are 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday or by appointment, June 14 through Aug. 10. Opening reception: 6-9 p.m. July 17. McNichols Building, 144 W. Colfax Ave.
To make an appointment, call 720-865-4303 or e-mail Peter.Dearth @denvergov.org
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