Updated April 24, 2014 7:19 p.m. ET
LOOKING AT the spring collections, you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd walked into an art gallery. Fashion is in full art attack mode, with designers splashing paint across dresses and translating historic pictures into arresting and covetable prints. Oscar de la Renta covered a ballgown in an intricate William Morris-esque print, while Jean-Charles de Castelbajac turned shift dresses into canvases for his own abstract paintings. Everywhere, fashion is being elevated to walking works of art.
"Art brings credibility to fashion," says Francesca Gavin, visual arts editor at fashion magazine Dazed & Confused. "We are so aware of the speed and commercialism in fashion now that designers and people buying high-end designer clothing really want to be engaged in some sense of authenticity."
While there's a surge of art-fashion crossovers this season, designers have long dipped their pens in the inkwell of artists. In the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with Salvador Dalí on a number of pieces, including a lobster-print gown worn by Wallis Simpson in the June 1937 issue of U.S. Vogue, and Yves Saint Laurent famously used the block lines of a Piet Mondrian painting to structure a 1965 shift dress. More recently, Louis Vuitton's collaborations have seen the French house's bags covered in everything from Takashi Murakami's colorful anime to Stephen Sprouse's neon graffiti.
Despite these successful meetings of the minds, art has historically been hesitant to actively pair with fashion. But that's all changing. "Artists are using fashion as promotion, like posters or catalogs," says Jenny Mannerheim, creative director of Paris-based label Each X Other, which she fronts with designer Ilan Delouis. The duo invites artists to transfer their ideas onto the brand's androgynous-inspired silhouettes. "We work with fashion as a publication media and put the biography of the artist on everything. So if you buy a leather jacket, you can Google GOOGL -0.57% Google Inc. Cl A U.S.: Nasdaq $534.44 -3.07 -0.57% April 24, 2014 4:00 pm Volume (Delayed 15m) : 2.04M AFTER HOURS $533.50 -0.94 -0.18% April 24, 2014 7:35 pm Volume (Delayed 15m): 31,136 P/E Ratio 29.12 Market Cap $356.08 Billion Dividend Yield N/A Rev. per Employee $1,281,850 04/24/14 The Fine Art of Spring Fashion 04/24/14 Amazon, in Threat to UPS, Trie... 04/24/14 Saudi Arabia Plans to Regulate... More quote details and news » the artist and discover a whole new world."
If You Like Abstraction
The Inspiration: The mood book that greeted guests at the Céline show included black and white images from Hungarian photographer Brassaï's 1961 collection of graffiti pictures, but the bold freehand brush strokes that covered designer Phoebe Philo's relaxed dresses also echoed contemporary abstract painting—a major trend surging through art right now. There was a likeness to the striking work of American Laura Owens, whose open and airy oversize paintings—like the "Untitled" pieces from 2012—grab the viewer's attention with their joyful colors and shapes. Not unlike the vibrant Céline dresses. Ms. Philo, the thinking woman's designer, is no stranger to the avant-garde: Her art-dealer husband, Max Wigram, looks after some of the hottest new names in art.
The Look: Michael Kors shoes, £140; Cédric Charlier sweatshirt, £235, J. Brand jeans, £250 , all net-a-porter.com
If You Like Street Art
The Inspiration: Fashion's art obsession is ultimately headed for the streets as walking paintings, so what better place to look for inspiration? That's exactly what avid art supporter Miuccia Prada did, showing her bejeweled dresses against a backdrop of works by illustrators and muralists, including Gabriel Specter's "In the heart of the multitude."
The Look: Christian Louboutin bag, £695, christianlouboutin.com ; Alexander McQueen skirt, £1,075, harrods.com ; Cats Brothers tee, £315, brownsfashion.com ; Nicholas Kirkwood heels, £450, brownsfashion.com
If You Like New European Painting
The Inspiration: Karl Lagerfeld, fashion's favorite multitasker, is a little like that kid at school who went above and beyond. Not only did he go all out with regard to the artistic merit of his spring collection for Chanel, he also spent his summer whipping up sketches for tongue-in-cheek paintings imitating art stars and Chanel icons. A 19th-century color table from paint specialist Royal Talens sparked silk dresses covered in all 150 hues—the sartorial equivalent of a Gerhard Richter color-chart painting, like "256 Farben" (1974).
The Look: Preen top, £415, avenue32.com ; Osman pants, £450, matchesfashion.com ; Gianvito Rossi heels, £470, gianvitorossi.com ; Givenchy bag, £1,250, givenchy.com
If You Like Vanitas
The Inspiration: Dries Van Noten draws on art to dream up his lavish collections. He's also a gardener and for spring, those passions came together in exquisite brocades. His design is a replica of an 1889 brocade, but it could have been plucked from a Flemish master's still life. In bloom, yet showing signs of fading, tulips sprawl across a black coat, reminding us of life's—and fashion's—transient nature. Jan Brueghel the Elder, the painter behind "Vase of Flowers" (circa 1610-15), would approve.
The Look: Veronique Branquinho dress, £825, thecorner.com ; Shaun Leane earrings, £6,500, shaunleane.com ; Sophia Webster heels, £540, matchesfashion.com ; Lanvin bag, £2,325, lanvin.com
If You Like Post-Impressionism
The Inspiration: Art is one of the final bastions of unadulterated luxury, so it's only natural that fashion houses should turn their gaze to the painted canvas. At Hermès this season, creative director Christophe Lemaire looked to Post-Impressionist painter Henri Rousseau's verdant fantasy dreamscapes, like "Tropical Forest: Battling Tiger and Buffalo" (1908), to create his own lush, leafy prints. Fashion is, for the most part, about antireality and escapism. So what better partner in crime than Rousseau, whose bold, exotic scenes invite the viewer into another realm?
The Look: Marni dress, £720, marni.com ; Chloé bag, £930, harrods.com
If You Like Light and Space
The Inspiration: Whether it's fox dipped in gold or mink seamlessly fused with crystals, Fendi's handiwork tends to be little masterpieces in their own right. For spring, the Italian house's collection had a translucent glow that brought to mind James Turell's mesmerizing neon-lit artworks, like "Bridget's Bardo" (2009). Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld's piercingly modern orange and cobalt dresses could easily be displayed next to the American artist's hypnotic large-scale spaces.
The Look: Fendi evening coat, £2,390, and blouse, £670 fendi.com ; Valentino heels, £600, valentino.com
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