Melissa McCarthy was in big trouble.
The plus-size star, whose movie “Tammy” opens Friday, says the fashion industry abandoned her and she “couldn’t find anybody” to dress her for the Oscars two years ago.
“I asked five or six designers — very high-level ones who make lots of dresses for people — and they all said, ‘No,’ ” the star told Redbook in June.
The interview sent shock waves through the fashion world — and, more important, the 100 million American women who are larger than size 14.
But McCarthy’s indictment (which has been questioned; see below) no longer rings true. The industry, spurred by more “real women” fashion bloggers and busting-out stars Mindy Kaling, Christina Hendricks, Rebel Wilson and Amber Riley — has finally gotten the message that the majority of women aren’t size 4.
There is even a Full-Figured Fashion Week, which took place last week in New York.
Eloquii, a plus-size brand discontinued by Limited Brands in 2013, was revived this year by some of its former executives. Selling designs by Jodi Arnold, the retailer operates online only and is a favorite with bloggers.
And Fashion to Figure has emerged as a burgeoning fast-fashion retailer. Created by Michael Kaplan, the company sells clothes in sizes 12 to 26 — with prices topping out at $30 or $40.
Kaplan has plus-size clothing in his blood; his great-grandmother was Lena Bryant, the founder of Lane Bryant, which for a very long time was the only player in this field.
Lane Bryant has upped its stake in the game with the addition of collections by Isabel Toledo and French designer Sophie Theallet, neither of whom was previously known for plus-size work.
Theallet is raving about her experience designing for women larger than waif models.
“I’m not a size 0 myself, so it’s fun to do this collaboration,” she says. “It makes me feel good. It’s not really ‘plus-size’ for me — it’s about the woman and her curves. I want her to feel beautiful.”
Lane Bryant’s CEO, Linda Heasley, said these collaborations are only the beginning.
“A number of other designers have asked to come work with us,” she says. “They bring the great design, and we bring the technical expertise. They understand how to drape the fabric, and we know how to grade the sizes accordingly.
“It's a science and an art,” she adds.
In the past, designers rarely offered high fashion above size 12. Beyond that, the clothes would have to be custom-made.
“I sell sizes from 2 to 10 or 12. Above that is considered special, and I ask for measurements,” says designer Barbara Tfank, who has dressed Adele, Kate Winslet and Michelle Obama.
“I have to charge more, because I’m making a new pattern,” she adds. “That can be anywhere from $250 to $500 more. It’s a lot of work.”
And designers can’t merely scale up the original dress, because the proportions won’t be right.
“She has hips or a bust or a belly,” Tfank says.
Designer Tadashi Shoji, who has dressed Octavia Spencer, Christina Hendricks and “Gray’s Anatomy” actress Sara Ramirez, says all it takes is patience and technique.
“I am a pattern maker — I can make any woman look good,” he says. “Still, there are parts of their body they are not happy with.”
The bad news is that not all women can afford custom-made clothes. The good news is that increasingly, there are less-expensive options.
“The things that are out there that are cute are inexpensive,” says Shoji.
LOOKING GOOD NO MATTER WHAT YOUR SIZE
1. Know your body and then figure out the proportions. “Wear something tight on top if you have a great waist, or show your legs,” says Eloquii Creative Director Jodi Arnold.
2. Wrap dresses always look good. “The dress gives you a waistline, whether it’s an illusion or not,” says stylist Robert Verdi.
3. When you look in the mirror, you see your feelings. So be honest with yourself. If you don’t look comfortable, find another dress.
4. Simple alterations can make a dress go from cheap-looking to custom-made.
5. Blouson tops and strategically draped fabric can hide your tummy. “Everything is illusion,” says designer Tadashi Shoji.
WHAT REALLY HAPPENED WITH MELISSA McCARTHY?
Actress Melissa McCarthy is going all over town talking about how “five or six” top designers snubbed her invitation to dress her for the Oscars when she was nominated for “Bridesmaids.”
But is McCarthy’s story true? Insiders suggest it’s a big fat lie.
Designer Christian Siriano wanted to dress McCarthy for the Oscars, and in fact, made two gowns for her.
“We met with her people. She and her stylist chose the fabric and the beading,” he tells the Daily News. “Quite frankly, she was quite difficult to work with. She wanted some specific things that I thought would not look good on her body. And she was not comfortable with them in the end.”
The two parted — and McCarthy ultimately wore a pink gown from Marina Rinaldi, a plus-size brand.
The supposed snub led McCarthy to create her own plus-size fashion house, called Pearl, which was announced last month — conveniently timed to her round of interviews about, you guessed it, her Oscars experience.
McCarthy’s rep did not return calls for comment.
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