Updated Aug. 14, 2014 8:20 p.m. ET
HANDS UP, WHO MISSES the excitement of going back to school after the summer holidays? OK, so school itself was perhaps a slightly overrated pleasure, but the sacred ritual of picking out new pencils, erasers and book covers was right up there with unwrapping your Christmas presents. Even homework was fun—for a while—courtesy of that magical "new pencil" feeling. And if you didn't wear a uniform, there was the first-day outfit, the holiest of them all. Being back at school signaled a fresh start, a blank page. You could reinvent yourself as a skater kid, a Goth or anyone from "Beverly Hills 90210."
As a grown-up, fashion's fall season is your symbolic first day. It's a game-changer, synonymous with serious outfits. It also happens to be the perfect way to psych yourself up for work after a long, hazy summer. But since August and September can be notoriously changeable, it's worth including some pieces from the prefall collections—the trailer for fall in lighter fabrics.
To bring back those first-day flutters—and land you a neat row of straight As in style, here's our guide to your essential fall fashion.
For the Girls
"This season feels like a stunning take on back-to-basics, and I think it ties in with how important sustainability is right now," says Camilla Pole. "We want something with longevity." A London-based freelance stylist, Ms. Pole has been shooting lots of softly masculine tailoring and luxurious knitwear for fall issues of fashion magazines.
Gone are last year's colorful trophy sweaters. Instead, designers are exploring head-to-toe tonal knits in ultrachic neutrals, like Haider Ackermann's mannish gray ribbed trousers and matching sweater, or Céline's knitted cream tunic over knit flares. For prefall, Ms. Pole suggests pairing knits with silks or lace for gorgeous contrast.
"The first day of school was always about getting new jeans," reminisces Laura Larbalestier, buying director at fashion-forward London boutique Browns. She points to Ashish's boyfriend jeans spelling Vogue down the leg with patches (£760, brownsfashion.com ) as fall's top denim buy.
Casual but totally not, they're emblematic of this fall's "real" clothes agenda and sumptuously laid-back atmosphere, where even Chanel did sneakers. From cocooning furs to languid knitwear, elevated comfort and no-nonsense pieces rule. "It's all about separates and a more relaxed feeling," says Ms. Larbalestier.
Top billing this season goes to snug outerwear, preferably in shearling, which has been revamped in color at Prada and contrasted with prints at Burberry. Buying fuzzy coats in August may sound a little crazy, but it pays to plan ahead. "Our capes and fur-lined parkas are already selling out," says Ms. Larbalestier. "It's strange considering how warm it is, but I know I myself have been caught out before when the cold hits." If you can't get your head around coat shopping in August, start out with an on-trend blanket wrap—the perfect transitional coverup.
All over the runways, there's a 1960s and '70s mood in the air. "The new '60s takes a couture approach, with interesting texture and plasticized surfaces," says Ms. Pole, referring to Nicolas Ghesquière's debut at Louis Vuitton, which riffed on A-line silhouettes in full-grain leather and hybrid fabrics, and Saint Laurent's glittery go-go boots. The '70s, meanwhile, are coming through in mid-length skirts, streamlined knee-length boots and an abundance of plaid—the quintessential fall classic. "I think it gives the right look for September," says Ms. Larbalestier, "and there's something quite school-ish about it."
For the Boys
"When I moved to secondary school, I opted for the silver buttons on my blazer instead of the standard black ones. It made quite an impact in the middle of Essex," says James West, who makes up one part of menswear magazine Hero's editor-in-chief team, alongside co-founder Fabien Kruszelnicki. At its core, menswear is a bit like the school uniform; it has a certain set of rules and a sense of formality that designers are always playing with to surprise us—and to see what they can get away with. For fall 2014, they've loosened everything up.
"There was a big sense of relaxed, understated casualness and laid-back luxury," says Mr. Kruszelnicki. Toby Bateman, buying director at men's fashion website Mr Porter, agrees: "There's a distinct lack of formal suiting," he says. "I think it's partly to do with the influence of performance sportswear, but it also reflects the relaxed dress code that now exists for men. Ten years ago you had that horrible Casual Friday thing, but today men are able to decide day-to-day what will be appropriate or make them feel comfortable and relaxed."
But don't worry, the suit isn't dead. It's just a bit more casual, and probably made in "moleskin or really earthy flannel or tweed, so it's less businesslike," says Mr. Bateman.
One of the major fall trends that Mr Porter is backing is the big, soft coat. Think a classic, sweeping hero coat with less structure. Mr. West calls them "confident and imposing," and everyone from Dior Homme to Topman is doing them. "Some have shawl collars and you sort of wrap them up," Mr. Bateman says. "It's almost dressing gown-like and really shelters you from the elements."
As designers are figuratively loosening everyone's ties, it's now not only perfectly acceptable but also very modern to layer outdoorsy pieces like parkas and gilets over suiting. "I think gilets are something that all men can relate to. [They're] utilitarian and wearable," says Mr. Bateman.
Classic outerwear is also being reinvented with graphic, modernist prints, like Louis Vuitton's bold stripes or Valentino's geometric patterns, while Dries Van Noten is doing opulent fox as casual scarves. "Fur, like anything, is at its best when it's not overdone, and that's how designers are treating it at the moment," says Mr. Kruszelnicki.
And just like at school, fall calls for a new backpack—the bag of the moment, only reimagined in leather. "Whenever I talk about backpacks, I always talk about backpack etiquette," Mr. Bateman says. "One of my pet frustrations is getting on a busy train with someone who is seemingly completely unaware of the fact they've got one on their back and just crashes into everyone. When you're on a busy train, take the backpack off." Take note, class.
COED SCHOOL SUPPLIES // The Star Pupil's Wardrobe Essentials
Grab Your Coat
For Him // Warm up to the roomy coat trend with this timeless double-breasted winner from Paul Smith. £1,199, paulsmith.co.uk Or if you're feeling bold, top your look off with Burberry Prorsum's printed blanket coat. £1,995, burberry.com
For Her // Shearling gets the ultra-luxurious treatment in this super soft Marni coat with a glass and gemstone-set collar. £3,440, brownsfashion.com Brighten up even the grayest day in Roksanda Ilincic's color-blocked coat. £1,350, thecorner.com
Cover Up
For Him // Functional cool at its best, this coated-cotton gilet from Belstaff looks great over a suit or as an off-duty piece worn over a sweater. £750, mrporter.com
For Her // Safety blankets just got chic. Wrap up in graphic gorgeousness with this Burberry Prorsum's poncho. £895, burberry.com
After-School Special
For Him // If you're up for this season's modernist prints, look no further than Neil Barrett. Pair with Acne's no-fuss navy blue suit trousers. Sweater, £225, pants, £220, both mrporter.com
For Her // Cozy up to fall with a Haider Ackermann sweater. Pair with Cedric Charlier's silver pleated lamé midi skirt for an elegant night on the town. Sweater, £460, skirt, £865, both at net-a-porter.com
Boot Up
For Him // The Chelsea boot, like these classics from Edward Green, rules supreme for fall, whether worn with jeans or smart tailoring. £800, mrporter.com
For Her // Give a nod to fall's modern '70s mood in Valentino's red-hot knee boots. Wear with bare legs before tights weather sets in. £1,065, valentino.com
Accessorize
For Him // Hit all the right shades of old-school cool with these Givenchy clip-on sunglasses. £215, harveynichols.com
For Her // Pledge allegiance to the house of Saint Laurent with a statement monogram cuff. £440, ysl.com
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